Vogue 8470 Revisited

So I did say that this pattern was on my list to make again. I finally got around to it, and I am very pleased with the results.

Since I've already made this pattern, I won't review it again. If you want to read the full review, you can do it here.

I really like how this turned out. I used a really lightweight, white, embroidered fabric for the top, and a cotton-candy pink broadcloth underneath. The white softens the pink of the broadcloth, and the pink gives a little colour to the white fabric on top. It's a nice balance.

I didn't have any problems with this pattern, really. The only things that were problematic were the ruffle and the halter top itself, a little bit. For the ruffle, I couldn't figure out the markings. You'd think, with all the sewing I do, that wouldn't be a problem, but after fiddling with the ruffle for about an hour, I laid the skirt out flat on the floor, and adjusted the ruffle to fit evenly around the skirt, disregarding seam matching (GASP!). I figured the ruffle itself would disguise that the seams don't match up. However, I DID match the back skirt seam to one of the ruffle seams. AND, since the fabric was so light-weight, I kept sewing bits of the skirt in to the ruffle seam, and then had to rip it out. At least you hem the ruffle before putting it on, so that means less circle-skirt hemming.

For the halter top, I don't really understand what Vogue is trying to teach me by having me construct the complete bodice in lining and good fabric, and then attaching the two around the edge. If I ever make this again (which I might), I'll put together the halter pieces with their lining, then sew those to the midriff piece, then attach the lining over the back. I think that method would give me more control over the look, placement and fit of the halter pieces, even if it is a bit more fiddly to attach the midriff lining after.

Finally, since this is a halter dress, I had to take in the back at the zipper, a little bit, just to make sure the back was snug.

Final thoughts: RUFFLES!!!

Pictures:

Front View

Back View

Close-up of Fabric Combo

RUFFLES!

Vogue 8882

Ok, so this was a pattern entirely determined by fabric. I loved the fabric in the store and so then went and found an appropriate pattern to use it. This is what I came up with.

Pattern used: Vogue 8882 (Vogue Easy Options line)

Pattern details: Pleated skirt with waistband, with hem and waistband variations.

Fabric used: POLKA DOT CHIFFON! Lined with Heritage quilting cotton (this has a bit more of a linen-y texture than broadcloth) 

View made: Franken-pattern combination of A and E.

What did you especially like about this pattern? By far the asymmetrical hem.

What did you especially dislike about this pattern? This is more of a body-shape thing, but in order to not gape horribly at the waist, I have to wear this skirt well above my belly button. I THINK this is how the pattern is designed to be worn, since I don't have any length issues with it. Also, the waistband is really wide, also leading me to have to wear it at an odd height.

Did you change the pattern at all? YES. My version is a complete franken-pattern. I basically made view A with a chiffon overlay of view E, or if you want to think about it the other way, I made view E with a lining of view A.

An itemized list of my changes:

    --I sewed the waistband of views A and E together (one on top of the other, then basted around the edge) and treated it as one piece.

    --I hemmed view A instead of interfacing a band to sew to the hem and then slipstitch in place

    --I sewed View A as I would for a lining (the seams and hem face OUT instead of in towards the body)

    --I hemmed the opening for the zipper in the chiffon and only sewed the zipper to the quilting cotton

I think that's all...

Things this pattern taught me: French seams. I did French seams on all of the chiffon seams because of the asymmetrical hemline. Since the chiffon frays really easily, they turned out a little furry, with little threads poking out of the right side of the seam, but that's my own fault for not trimming the seam before I enclosed it.

Final thoughts: In spite of all my tinkering the pattern turned out really well, and so Twirly!

Pictures:

Front View

Back View

Vogue 8470

This pattern is definitely on my list to make again, in spite of a couple of tiny flaws. :)

Pattern Used: Vogue 8470 (Vogue Easy Options Line)

Pattern Details: Fitted bodice, circle skirt, Dickie-type insert at neckline, fully lined

Fabric Used: Striped shirting cotton with broadcloth lining

View made: A

What did you especially like about this pattern? Options, options, options! I think the next incarnation of this dress that I make will have that adorable ruffle on the bottom.

What did you especially dislike about this pattern? Not much, it's your standard Vogue pattern, well made with clear instructions. However, the instructions did tax my brain a little bit to put in the insert at the neckline. I thought it was going to just be sewn in, making sure seams matched etc, then lined,  instead of being a completely separate piece. Also at the neckline, I found that the point where all four triangles meet is a huge stress point,  and a little of my white stitching shows, because the seams are pulling a bit. The neckline in general was pretty fussy actually, because you have to do a lot of "stitch to large dot, reinforce, turn" sort of stuff.

What I learned from this pattern: Ummmm.... gimme a sec here..... Not much. It didn't really present me with any extraordinary techniques.

Final thoughts: The fit on this dress could be a bit better, since the seam under the bust doesn't actually sit UNDER the bust, but a little bit higher, leading to a little extra fabric in that area. Other than that it's really comfortable. I made the tea length view so it hits me mid-calf, which means this dress is more appropriate for cooler days.

Pictures:

Front View

Back View

Vogue 8648

This pattern has potential, BUT it has its problems. Read on to find out why I am displeased....

Pattern Used: Vogue 8648 (Vogue Easy Options Line)

Pattern Details: Princess seaming, waistband cut on the bias, circle skirt

Fabric Used: Gingham with broadcloth lining (for something like this, with both bias and straight grain pieces, I thought something with stripes or other clearly defined pattern would be good.)

View Made: F

Did it look like the picture? Yes.

What did you especially like about the pattern? I like the options, it really sparked my creativity because you can play with fabric choice and colour all on the same dress (even if I didn't for this particular one). And the circle skirt! So much fun with little bulk at the waist and so twirly!

What did you especially dislike about the pattern? THOSE SLEEVES! They suck. Because of the princess seaming and dress design, you cut the piece that goes over your shoulder on the bias. The bias then STRETCHES as you handle the garment making the neckline wonky and the armhole not fit. And sewing the sleeves in two pieces? Who does that and WHY? I had SO MUCH trouble getting the sleeves to sit without tucks etc, I ended up having to take in the shoulder seam a bit and it still was a fight. I ended up giving up and they don’t look too bad, but it was really frustrating. ALSO, again since that piece is cut on the bias, there is no give in the armhole (if you cut an armhole on the straight grain, the fabric is usually on the bias where it counts, like under the arm). It can really restrict movement of your arm. BAH! I am displeased.

Did you change the pattern at all? I added in-side-seam pockets. I add them to most of my projects for convenience’s sake.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. Vogue is good at instructions in general.

What this pattern taught me: DON'T aggressively iron bias cut pieces. They will stretch, and I will be unhappy with them.

Final thoughts: After all the problems I had with the neckline and sleeves (In order to make the sleeves sit on my shoulders, I have to pull the dress down, making it quite busty) I don’t think this one is on my list of make-again-soon patterns, although it DOES inspire my creativity.

Pictures:

Front View

Close up of the bias-cut waistband

Back view (With complimentary neckline wonkiness)